He said a 30 centimeter increase in wave height over 50 years is not that large.

他说，海浪高度在50年内增加30厘米并不是很大。

Salt marshes and mangroves in tidal zones can reduce wave heights and total wave energy by more than 50%.

潮汐区的盐沼和红树林可以将波高和总波能降低 50% 以上。

These are ultrasonic sensors, and that's how we measure wave height and period and direction in the basin.

这些是超声波传感器，这就是我们测量盆地中波高、周期和方向的方式。

And this is breaking due to the coalescing waves, and the wave height being more than one seventh of the wavelength.

由于聚结波和波高超过波长的七分之一，这种情况正在被打破。

It's gonna be about a five inch significant wave height, which if we were to scale it up for this model would be 20 foot waves.

有效波高约为 5 英寸，如果我们将其放大到该模型，则有效波高将达到 20 英尺。