Stokes wave

Model testing with periodic waves in the Wave–Tow Tank of the Jere A. Chase Ocean Engineering Laboratory, University of New Hampshire.

Undular bore and whelps near the mouth of Araguari River in north-eastern Brazil. View is oblique toward mouth from airplane at approximately 100 ft (30 m) altitude.[1] The undulations following behind the bore front appear as slowly-modulated Stokes waves.

The three harmonics contributing to the surface elevation of a deep water wave, according to Stokes' third-order theory. The wave steepness is: ka = 0.3. For visibility, the vertical scale is distorted by a factor of four, compared to the horizontal scale.Description:• the dark blue line is the surface elevation of the 3rd-order Stokes wave,• the black line is the fundamental wave component, with wavenumber k (wavelength λ, k = 2π / λ),• the light blue line is the harmonic at 2 k (wavelength ½ λ), and• the red line is the harmonic at 3 k (wavelength ⅓ λ).

The ratio S = a2 / a of the amplitude a2 of the harmonic with twice the wavenumber (2 k), to the amplitude a of the fundamental, according to Stokes' second-order theory for surface gravity waves. On the horizontal axis is the relative water depth h / λ, with h the mean depth and λ the wavelength, while the vertical axis is the Stokes parameter S divided by the wave steepness ka (with k = 2π / λ).Description:• the blue line is valid for arbitrary water depth, while• the dashed red line is the shallow-water limit (water depth small compared to the wavelength), and• the dash-dot green line is the asymptotic limit for deep water waves.

In fluid dynamics, a Stokes wave is a non-linear and periodic surface wave on an inviscid fluid layer of constant mean depth. This type of modelling has its origins in the mid 19th century when Sir George Stokes – using a perturbation series approach, now known as the Stokes expansion – obtained approximate solutions for non-linear wave motion.

单词	Stokes wave
释义	Stokes wave 英语百科 Stokes wave In fluid dynamics, a Stokes wave is a non-linear and periodic surface wave on an inviscid fluid layer of constant mean depth. This type of modelling has its origins in the mid 19th century when Sir George Stokes – using a perturbation series approach, now known as the Stokes expansion – obtained approximate solutions for non-linear wave motion.
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