ON A RECENT SATURDAY AFTERNOON IN Sahabevava village, on the east coast of Madagascar, vanilla farmer Lydia Soa wielded a small wooden stamp studded with steel pins spelling out her producer number: MK021.

最近一个周六的下午，在马达加斯加东海岸的沙贝瓦瓦村，种植香草的农民莉迪亚·索瓦正挥舞着一个钉满钢钉，印着她的生产商编号“MK021”的小木章。